Day 234 - New Delhi to Nanital, India - 28th March 2005
Just to let you know what's happening and how we are:
Afer 48 hours of constant toilet, Julie and I are on the mend. We had no more than a fitfull hour or twos sleep in that time. Last night my sister gave us both an indian herbal remedy to help block us up. Unfortunately the side effects were that neither of us had any sleep but we did have wonderful halucinations all night. We are now both on our knees and we shortly have to set off on a 6 to 7 hour car journey to the foothills of the Himalayas. We are going for the boys cousins half term to a little hill station up there. Are we looking forward to it? What do you think?
I only have myself to blame. Whos idea was this whole thing anyway? Our trip has been so good this far. India has been the challenge really. There is so much I have stored up in my mind that I would like to write about it but I will not get another chance now until we come back on Sunday April 2nd or 3rd.
So dear reader (and I know that I have one or two) don't abandon us just yet. We will be back soon with more good stories and banal commentaries.
Also for our friends who have told us of their own memories of India (mostly 20 to 30 years ago) I have some bad news. If you want to keep those memories; don't come back. You will certainly be dissappointed. Today's reality is wretchedly grim. Almost like me going back to Disneyland after 25 years. I just wish I had never done it (see day 192 in February archives).
Monday, March 28, 2005
Sunday, March 27, 2005
You see we told Sammy that he would be able to ride a camel at the Taj - but there weren't any. Our driver (clever chap) saw a camel in Delhi the next day when he was taking Sammy's cousins to school and he stopped and asked the boy leading it, if he wanted a little earner on the side. 2 hours later the magnificent beast showed up at the house. We ran in and told Sammy that a camel had arrived for him. He couldn't believe it. The picture is taken right outside our house. We went for a 15 minute walk around the block and then Julian went with his cousin. The man charged us 500 rupees - about £6. Well worth it.
Saturday, March 26, 2005
Day 232 - New Delhi - 26th March 2005
Julie and I are down. We have finally succumed to "Delhi Belli" and I'm telling you it is not pleasant.
On Wednesday we went to the Taj Mahal, Agra and Fetehpur Sikri and were taken to a restaurant favoured by westerners. Amonst other vegetarian items, we had a chicken curry. It was a foolish mistake but since we had not had any Indian food during the 4 weeks we have been here now, we thought we would give it a try.
We were feeling poorly by the time we were coming back and yesterday we were both flat out. Last night it hit with a vengence. Julie spent almost the whole night on the toilet upstairs, which was complicated by her being sick at the same time and I was on the toilet downstairs. We hardly slept at all and today we have been mainly in bed when not on the toilet. This is not nice.
We missed going to church yesterday and it seems like we will be unable to make it for Easter Sunday as well.
Fortunately the boys have not been affected.
We are due to drive to the foothills of the Himalayas on Monday with the other kids here who are on half term. We are hoping we will be up to it.
Spare us a thought. At this point in time we just like to be at home.
Julie and I are down. We have finally succumed to "Delhi Belli" and I'm telling you it is not pleasant.
On Wednesday we went to the Taj Mahal, Agra and Fetehpur Sikri and were taken to a restaurant favoured by westerners. Amonst other vegetarian items, we had a chicken curry. It was a foolish mistake but since we had not had any Indian food during the 4 weeks we have been here now, we thought we would give it a try.
We were feeling poorly by the time we were coming back and yesterday we were both flat out. Last night it hit with a vengence. Julie spent almost the whole night on the toilet upstairs, which was complicated by her being sick at the same time and I was on the toilet downstairs. We hardly slept at all and today we have been mainly in bed when not on the toilet. This is not nice.
We missed going to church yesterday and it seems like we will be unable to make it for Easter Sunday as well.
Fortunately the boys have not been affected.
We are due to drive to the foothills of the Himalayas on Monday with the other kids here who are on half term. We are hoping we will be up to it.
Spare us a thought. At this point in time we just like to be at home.
These are the pics of Fetehpur Sikri.
Thursday, March 24, 2005
Day 229 - The Taj Mahal and Fatephur Sikri, India - 23rd March, 2005
The day starts very badly. Our train to Agra leaves New Delhi main station at 6:00am and the journey from the house to the station takes 30 minutes. The alarm is set to go off at 4:00am to give us a comfortable margin of error. So imagine the horror and panic that sets in when my sister's friend Valerie, who is to accompany us today, knocks on our bedroom door and says "It's 5:20, I think we should be leaving". We only have 40 minutes to get there and we're not even dressed yet.
The boys did a marvelous job. They work well under pressure. The mosquito nets and sheets were ripped off in one go. They were up, dressed and standing by the front door in about 90 seconds. None of us could wash or shower any way as the water has been off for 3 days now. Julie, still the most sensible and organised of us all, had packed all our bags, including food, the night before. I rang the local taxi man and put the camera and some other bits in my bag. I really think we all did it in about 6 minutes.
By then the taxi driver had arrived and was waiting for us outside. Our guard, who would usually be slumbering in his sentry hut at the end of the drive was suddenly rudely woken by 5 people running down the drive in a panic. I'm sure he thought the house was on fire or that we had heard that there was going to be an earthquake. Not speaking much english, it was impossible to explain to him what was happening. We piled into the taxi and left.
We explained to the driver that we needed to catch a train at 6:00am. He drove off at a very sedate pace perhaps because he had only just been woken up himself or because he had not grasped the urgency. We repeated to him "Train 6 o'clock, train 6 o'clock. TODAY". I took out 300 rupees (£4) and flashed it around. This would be about double what he could usually expect for this journey. He looked at his watch and then suddenly realised what was needed. He changed down 2 gears and stomped on the gas. We were off.
The ride was as memorable as our RV journey to the airport in Las Vegas (see previous post Day 176). We were never sure we were going to make it. At one point going round a round about at about 50 mph, I really thought our little Honda Chappy taxi van was going to topple. I instinctively leaned in the other direction. Getting closer to the station, the traffic increased exponentially until we were about 500 yards away when it stopped completely. The driver suggested we complete the journey on foot.
We piled out. We had already agreed a strategy and we put this into action. I was to run off with Julian, find the train and then stop it. Julie, Valerie and Sammy were to pay the driver and follow up behind.
You've seen it in the movies where the guy just runs into the street (it's usually in the US when there is a chase scene) puts his hand up and all the traffic screeched to a stop. It really works and is quite an acceptable means of crossing the road in Delhi. You must however, never flinch. The slightest hesitation spells disaster and they have won. Simply step into the traffic and it will stop. Most of the traffic consisted of auto-rickshaws which are highly maneuverable and easy to stop. I would not have tried the same thing with buses.
...... to be continued (subject to "Delhi Belli" getting better) .......
The day starts very badly. Our train to Agra leaves New Delhi main station at 6:00am and the journey from the house to the station takes 30 minutes. The alarm is set to go off at 4:00am to give us a comfortable margin of error. So imagine the horror and panic that sets in when my sister's friend Valerie, who is to accompany us today, knocks on our bedroom door and says "It's 5:20, I think we should be leaving". We only have 40 minutes to get there and we're not even dressed yet.
The boys did a marvelous job. They work well under pressure. The mosquito nets and sheets were ripped off in one go. They were up, dressed and standing by the front door in about 90 seconds. None of us could wash or shower any way as the water has been off for 3 days now. Julie, still the most sensible and organised of us all, had packed all our bags, including food, the night before. I rang the local taxi man and put the camera and some other bits in my bag. I really think we all did it in about 6 minutes.
By then the taxi driver had arrived and was waiting for us outside. Our guard, who would usually be slumbering in his sentry hut at the end of the drive was suddenly rudely woken by 5 people running down the drive in a panic. I'm sure he thought the house was on fire or that we had heard that there was going to be an earthquake. Not speaking much english, it was impossible to explain to him what was happening. We piled into the taxi and left.
We explained to the driver that we needed to catch a train at 6:00am. He drove off at a very sedate pace perhaps because he had only just been woken up himself or because he had not grasped the urgency. We repeated to him "Train 6 o'clock, train 6 o'clock. TODAY". I took out 300 rupees (£4) and flashed it around. This would be about double what he could usually expect for this journey. He looked at his watch and then suddenly realised what was needed. He changed down 2 gears and stomped on the gas. We were off.
The ride was as memorable as our RV journey to the airport in Las Vegas (see previous post Day 176). We were never sure we were going to make it. At one point going round a round about at about 50 mph, I really thought our little Honda Chappy taxi van was going to topple. I instinctively leaned in the other direction. Getting closer to the station, the traffic increased exponentially until we were about 500 yards away when it stopped completely. The driver suggested we complete the journey on foot.
We piled out. We had already agreed a strategy and we put this into action. I was to run off with Julian, find the train and then stop it. Julie, Valerie and Sammy were to pay the driver and follow up behind.
You've seen it in the movies where the guy just runs into the street (it's usually in the US when there is a chase scene) puts his hand up and all the traffic screeched to a stop. It really works and is quite an acceptable means of crossing the road in Delhi. You must however, never flinch. The slightest hesitation spells disaster and they have won. Simply step into the traffic and it will stop. Most of the traffic consisted of auto-rickshaws which are highly maneuverable and easy to stop. I would not have tried the same thing with buses.
...... to be continued (subject to "Delhi Belli" getting better) .......
Monday, March 21, 2005
Poverty in India
Out of every 100 children born in India today:
63 births are not even registered
25 are not immunized against any disease
16 will have no access to clean drinking water
47 will suffer from malnutrition
15 will never go to school
This is something we will never have to live with, we can never really imagine and we can see all around us in New Delhi. Poverty is not something being suffered by the population only in the poor agricultural areas (60% of the labour force work in agriculture) but right here in the capital city. From what I have learnt from those who have been out into the rural areas, they may not be rich but they don't live in sewers and by the side of polluted roads.
Personally I find visiting in this kind of environment a challenging and distressing thing to do. It raises so many questions for me and my life. Why do we have and why do they have not. In europe we never really have to address this sort of issue in our daily lives but here you aren't able to ignore it. Every car journey will give rise to at least 2 or 3 encounters with road side (car side) beggars, tapping on your window, pointing at their tummies or mouths. Most of these beggars are children. It is estimated that 2.3 million children live in the slums or streets of Mumbai alone.
Do we ignore these taps on the window? Expatriates who have suffered it longer than us have various philosophies to come to terms with the phenomenon, most of them eventually reaching the decision just not to give at all. This is also the case for many Indians, some of whom have scolded us for donating. Some of the arguements are:
1. It just encourages them.
2. It's actually illegal to give to them.
3. Any money that you give them gets given to their "controller".
4. They have been dressed up to look dirty and distressed but it's only a facade.
5 . Some have been mutilated so they attract more sympathy.
6. The are all of a lower caste and should really be moved on.
Whichever of the above arguements is used or is true, doesn't detract from the fact that they have to be better off if you give them something than if you don't. So we do as much as we can or as is acceptable to the company we are with. This can be difficult as even my sister's driver (who has to drive us everywhere) does not approve (he doesn't want them near his car) and although he is in no position to dictate, we do not want to upset the status quo in his relationship with my sister, his employer. So we give out 2 or 3 rupees here and there (4 or 5 pence) which basically costs us nothing but means that they can probably get something to eat. We have found a good bowl of foods for 20 rupees here so a street kid could probably survive on 10 or 20 rupees a day and be reasonably well fed.
Julie just wanted to take them all home but now as we acclimatise to the situation we become more realistic (read: dulled) about what is possible and what we can contribute.
Out of every 100 children born in India today:
63 births are not even registered
25 are not immunized against any disease
16 will have no access to clean drinking water
47 will suffer from malnutrition
15 will never go to school
This is something we will never have to live with, we can never really imagine and we can see all around us in New Delhi. Poverty is not something being suffered by the population only in the poor agricultural areas (60% of the labour force work in agriculture) but right here in the capital city. From what I have learnt from those who have been out into the rural areas, they may not be rich but they don't live in sewers and by the side of polluted roads.
Personally I find visiting in this kind of environment a challenging and distressing thing to do. It raises so many questions for me and my life. Why do we have and why do they have not. In europe we never really have to address this sort of issue in our daily lives but here you aren't able to ignore it. Every car journey will give rise to at least 2 or 3 encounters with road side (car side) beggars, tapping on your window, pointing at their tummies or mouths. Most of these beggars are children. It is estimated that 2.3 million children live in the slums or streets of Mumbai alone.
Do we ignore these taps on the window? Expatriates who have suffered it longer than us have various philosophies to come to terms with the phenomenon, most of them eventually reaching the decision just not to give at all. This is also the case for many Indians, some of whom have scolded us for donating. Some of the arguements are:
1. It just encourages them.
2. It's actually illegal to give to them.
3. Any money that you give them gets given to their "controller".
4. They have been dressed up to look dirty and distressed but it's only a facade.
5 . Some have been mutilated so they attract more sympathy.
6. The are all of a lower caste and should really be moved on.
Whichever of the above arguements is used or is true, doesn't detract from the fact that they have to be better off if you give them something than if you don't. So we do as much as we can or as is acceptable to the company we are with. This can be difficult as even my sister's driver (who has to drive us everywhere) does not approve (he doesn't want them near his car) and although he is in no position to dictate, we do not want to upset the status quo in his relationship with my sister, his employer. So we give out 2 or 3 rupees here and there (4 or 5 pence) which basically costs us nothing but means that they can probably get something to eat. We have found a good bowl of foods for 20 rupees here so a street kid could probably survive on 10 or 20 rupees a day and be reasonably well fed.
Julie just wanted to take them all home but now as we acclimatise to the situation we become more realistic (read: dulled) about what is possible and what we can contribute.
Sunday, March 20, 2005
Our church location last week. Hosted by the CEO of Group 4 Security at his home on the outskirts on New Delhi. All this was put up just for the service. We were treated to lunch and drinks and spent the afternoon swimming in their pool. It does not get any better than this. It's enough to make you want to become a Christian. I am born again!
Christianity in Delhi/India
There are more Christians than Sikhs in India. Ok, so there are only 1.9% of the population who are sikh and 2.3% christian but from a population of 1.2 billion that makes for 27 million Christians. The biggest religious group is the Hindus with 81% and then Muslim with 12%.
Whilst we are here we have been attending a church called the Delhi International Christian Fellowship. This is a church of about 150 people of all nationalities which mainly serves the expatriate community and americans in particular, as they form the biggest group here on that basis. They are evangelical by nature but quite conservative in operation as they do have to cater to a wide range of christian persuasions.
My mum found the church for us and the second day we were here, we all trotted off. Due to a double booking at their normal location (the British School in New Delhi), they had to take over a conference suite at the Hyatt Regency Hotel (5 star if you please). We were mightily impressed. They have these beautifully covered chairs here and the place looked like it was set up for a wedding. The service is simple and they have an active kids group with about 60 kids every Sunday.
The coffees and biscuits (courtesy of the Hyatt) were simply the best I have ever tasted. There were pastries of every description, doughnuts and cookies. As many as you could eat. In typical British "holiday maker abroad" mode, I even took a couple home with me. After all, as a nation, we still haven't got used to the "all you can eat" concept (which is in every restaurant in the US) so we can't get over how lucky we are when we see endless food on offer. I always have to take an extra one for later. I blame my mum. She always used to take an extra couple of sugar cubes when we were kids, if any restaurant or cafe was silly enough to leave more than 2 on the table. I'm sure it had something to do with rationing in the war. What generally happens, as it did on this occasion, was that we take an extra something but by the time you want to eat them they have gone off. Julie would always take an extra apple or banana from the breakfast buffet for that "just in case" moment but they would always end up in the bin. When will we learn that there is always enough and we do not have to squirrel stuff away?
The following week we met in the theatre of the British School. At the moment the church in suffering from not having a full time pastor but they now think they have found the right man after looking for nearly a year. In the meantime there have been visiting ministers and pastors which has been great from the point of view of getting alot of different views and styles but doesn't really work for continuity, direction and leadership.
My sister and husband do not go to church but we have been taking my sister's boys (Daniel 10 and Michael 8) with us each week. This has been an increasingly difficult task as the weeks progressed. Although they were baptised in St. Paul's Cathedral, London, along with our children, I don't think they have been to church since (excluding the odd wedding). So after initially being quite content to hang out with their cousins, they are now reluctant participants and I am sure that we will not be able to persuade them in the coming weeks. The problem has also been that this attitude has been rubbing off on our boys and Julian in particular is now "why do we have to go to church when they don't have to?"
Last week we were treated to perhaps our most amazing Sunday morning church service ever. Every year the Chief Executive Officer of Group 4 Security India hosts the service in the grounds of his substantial farmland style property on the outskirts of the city. The service with over 150 of us was in the garden under this amazing tented canopy and with (again) these beautifully covered chairs. Since he employs 1,000s of security personnel in India (including the 2 who guard my sister's house) there were many helpers and guards in attendance. We all got into a hired bus and were driven the 15 miles to the house. We were met by scores of Group 4 guards, directing us up to drive and into the house. We could have been arriving for the oscars.
When we went around the corner of the tented entrance we were stunned. Julie was speechless. An event, not organised by her, that was executed to an exceptional standard and with no detail left undone. For her it simply was the best church event she has ever been to. The food and drink were glorious and the swimming pool (the biggest private pool I have ever seen) was thoroughly enjoyed by the boys. In fact I think the only reason the boy's cousins came with us this week was that they thought they might be in for more of the same.
Sadly they weren't and we were back at the British School this week for palm Sunday (with real fresh cut palm leaves). However, as we know it is not the church that makes the difference, it's the people in it and their relationship with God that counts.
There are more Christians than Sikhs in India. Ok, so there are only 1.9% of the population who are sikh and 2.3% christian but from a population of 1.2 billion that makes for 27 million Christians. The biggest religious group is the Hindus with 81% and then Muslim with 12%.
Whilst we are here we have been attending a church called the Delhi International Christian Fellowship. This is a church of about 150 people of all nationalities which mainly serves the expatriate community and americans in particular, as they form the biggest group here on that basis. They are evangelical by nature but quite conservative in operation as they do have to cater to a wide range of christian persuasions.
My mum found the church for us and the second day we were here, we all trotted off. Due to a double booking at their normal location (the British School in New Delhi), they had to take over a conference suite at the Hyatt Regency Hotel (5 star if you please). We were mightily impressed. They have these beautifully covered chairs here and the place looked like it was set up for a wedding. The service is simple and they have an active kids group with about 60 kids every Sunday.
The coffees and biscuits (courtesy of the Hyatt) were simply the best I have ever tasted. There were pastries of every description, doughnuts and cookies. As many as you could eat. In typical British "holiday maker abroad" mode, I even took a couple home with me. After all, as a nation, we still haven't got used to the "all you can eat" concept (which is in every restaurant in the US) so we can't get over how lucky we are when we see endless food on offer. I always have to take an extra one for later. I blame my mum. She always used to take an extra couple of sugar cubes when we were kids, if any restaurant or cafe was silly enough to leave more than 2 on the table. I'm sure it had something to do with rationing in the war. What generally happens, as it did on this occasion, was that we take an extra something but by the time you want to eat them they have gone off. Julie would always take an extra apple or banana from the breakfast buffet for that "just in case" moment but they would always end up in the bin. When will we learn that there is always enough and we do not have to squirrel stuff away?
The following week we met in the theatre of the British School. At the moment the church in suffering from not having a full time pastor but they now think they have found the right man after looking for nearly a year. In the meantime there have been visiting ministers and pastors which has been great from the point of view of getting alot of different views and styles but doesn't really work for continuity, direction and leadership.
My sister and husband do not go to church but we have been taking my sister's boys (Daniel 10 and Michael 8) with us each week. This has been an increasingly difficult task as the weeks progressed. Although they were baptised in St. Paul's Cathedral, London, along with our children, I don't think they have been to church since (excluding the odd wedding). So after initially being quite content to hang out with their cousins, they are now reluctant participants and I am sure that we will not be able to persuade them in the coming weeks. The problem has also been that this attitude has been rubbing off on our boys and Julian in particular is now "why do we have to go to church when they don't have to?"
Last week we were treated to perhaps our most amazing Sunday morning church service ever. Every year the Chief Executive Officer of Group 4 Security India hosts the service in the grounds of his substantial farmland style property on the outskirts of the city. The service with over 150 of us was in the garden under this amazing tented canopy and with (again) these beautifully covered chairs. Since he employs 1,000s of security personnel in India (including the 2 who guard my sister's house) there were many helpers and guards in attendance. We all got into a hired bus and were driven the 15 miles to the house. We were met by scores of Group 4 guards, directing us up to drive and into the house. We could have been arriving for the oscars.
When we went around the corner of the tented entrance we were stunned. Julie was speechless. An event, not organised by her, that was executed to an exceptional standard and with no detail left undone. For her it simply was the best church event she has ever been to. The food and drink were glorious and the swimming pool (the biggest private pool I have ever seen) was thoroughly enjoyed by the boys. In fact I think the only reason the boy's cousins came with us this week was that they thought they might be in for more of the same.
Sadly they weren't and we were back at the British School this week for palm Sunday (with real fresh cut palm leaves). However, as we know it is not the church that makes the difference, it's the people in it and their relationship with God that counts.
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